Curtains, in detail

Textiles: almost any textile will work for curtains provided it has enough fluidity (our Archie linen, for instance, is too stiff), so you can go for light and airy sheer linen (such as Imogen), deeply cosy velvet and wool, or a mid to heavy-weight linen (like Hugo, Chloe, Harry or Linara at Neptune) for something in the middle. Pattern works well too, but if you don’t want to go fully patterned you can also have the leading edge or bottom section made in a different plain or patterned fabric.

Lining, interlining & fullness: how full your curtains are will largely depend on the lining and interlining. Even a lighter linen such as Imogen will have a heavier look when fully lined. We’d pretty much always recommend a regular lining � it’ll give just enough body and protect your face fabric from the sun � but there’s also the option of blackout lining with our service. Interlining adds a luxurious fullness and extra thermal properties, so we recommend it for draughty houses and doors. Use standard interlining for heavy fabrics like wool and velvet, and a thicker interlining for the likes of linen. Fullness is also, of course, determined by how much fabric makes up your curtains. If you’re going for a lighter face fabric and lining combination, then definitely have your curtains made with more fabric, otherwise they could look scant.

Length: in short, always go full length. Curtains that stop at the windowsill tend to disrupt the proportions of the room (like trousers cut unflatteringly short). We usually make our curtains so they just graze the floor, but longer curtains that puddle slightly can be very romantic.

Headings: there are all sorts of ways you can head a curtain but the three we think are both smartest and most timeless are cartridge and pleat headings. Cartridge is the most contemporary and is great if you want a minimal look � the fabric is simply stitched into soft folds. Double and triple pleat headings are a touch more traditional although still crisp and tailored. We’d recommend double pleat for smaller windows and triple for larger (although the latter isn’t suitable for very thick curtains).

Poles: generally speaking, we prefer a pole to a pelmet. No matter how simple a pelmet, it’ll always feel very traditional and we just think a pole is a more timeless option. A pelmet does work well though when you have an odd gap between the top of the window and the ceiling but you want your curtains to go to the ceiling, as it’ll hide the gap (we can make bespoke pelmets as part of our Home Design Service, but not our normal curtains & blinds service. All our fabrics are available by the metre though, in case you want to have one made yourself). When it comes to poles, choose an understated finial and finish (something we’ve already done for you with our own options) so they won’t date. And we’d definitely consider the lined rings of our premium poles if it matters to you that they draw quietly. Finally, glider poles are a good option if you don’t want to see the pole at all or you want to hang your curtains from the ceiling.

Roman blinds, in detail

Textiles: like curtains, almost anything is possible, although velvet is too heavy. With our service, you can also add borders (where you can use velvet) to the sides, bottom or both to add an accent of colour or pattern.

Linings & interlinings: all the same options as curtains are available on our Roman blinds, and will affect the thermal and blackout properties of the blind as well as its visual weight. A favourite combination of ours is a lighter linen blind with heavier curtains (or vice versa) in a bedroom. Together they give you a complete blackout in summer when the nights and mornings are light, and using the blind alone lets more light in during winter.

Recessing: with a Roman blind, you have the option of either mounting it inside your window’s recess or in front of it. Which you choose is up to you, but bear in mind that recessed blinds make it hard to place things on the windowsill, and blinds in front of the recess can’t be combined with curtains. Mounting the blind in front is a good trick for making smaller windows appear larger though.

Whether you know exactly what you’d like and want to get started making it a reality, or you’re not sure what’s the best window treatment for you, we can help in store. Simply pop in to chat to the team at your local Neptune about our curtains and blinds service.

Curtains versus Roman blinds

The first big question is, are you going to opt for curtains or Roman blinds (we’ll get on to shutters and the like in a minute)? Be led by practicality first and foremost. If you have a radiator underneath your window for instance, you’ll probably want to go for a blind so you don’t block its heat. Likewise if there will be a piece of furniture below it. Blinds also tend to work better in kitchens and bathrooms � curtains can feel a bit impractical, although if they’re well-removed from the cooking and washing areas, they can be a lovely, cosy addition. Curtains are also best for large or full-length windows and for blocking drafts.

Otherwise, the choice is really down to personal preference. Roman blinds have a neater look whereas curtains are more about bringing softness to the room. You can also absolutely choose to combine them, perhaps leaving the curtains just as decoration or drawing both for maximum blackout.

Shutters, etc

We’re not really keen on any other type of blind except Roman. Both Venetian and roller blinds just tend to feel too flimsy or utilitarian and the obvious mechanisms are a distraction. Shutters, however, we do love. If your windows already have their original shutters then lucky you (although you may also want to add curtains for softness). Otherwise, slatted shutters are a great choice for spaces where you want a neater, more minimal look than fabric, where you need something more practical, or where you want greater control over the light and privacy.

'Problem' windows

Tall ceiling, short window: where your windows stop well short of your ceiling (in a barn conversion for instance), we’d recommend Roman blinds. Curtains tend to look odd if they’re not mounted close to the ceiling.

Windows of different sizes and shapes: if you have several windows in one room that sit at different heights or are different sizes, we’d suggest that you either use blinds on all of them or, if that doesn’t suit (say with a long window that calls for curtains), then it’s better to use a curtain on one and a blind on the other, rather than curtains on both. The clear contrast will be more appealing than an awkward near-match.

Bay windows: how you treat a bay depends on whether, when the blinds or curtains are shut, you still want to use the bay. If you do, hang blinds or fit your curtains to curve around the bay (this is where we’d recommend a glider pole � more details on that in part two of this journal). Otherwise, curtains in front work fine, although you may also want blinds so you still have the option of using the bay (like at Christmas, when you might place your tree here).

Unusually shaped windows & skylights: if you have a circular window, for instance, then we might even suggest you go without window treatments at all. It would be a shame to lose the architecture the unusual shape brings. The same goes for skylights. If you do need something though, choose custom-made shutters that fit to � rather than distract from � the shape. That said, curtains also work just fine for arched windows.

Doors

Last but not least, let’s touch on doors. Both curtains and Roman blinds are suitable: a Roman blind will sit onto the door itself, and you can use one behind a half-glazed panel for privacy; curtains are a more typical choice and will effectively draught-proof your doorway as well. Just make sure, with curtains, that there’s enough wall space to pull them back out the way. And, with either, it’s lovely to line them with an equally attractive fabric (rather than a plain calico) because you’ll frequently see it as you walk through.

Decision made? Find out more about curtain and Roman blind styles and textiles in part two, or explore our service here.

Printed linen

Our printed linens offer a softer, simpler way to experiment with pattern � with just one background and one print colour to consider.

If you’re upholstering furniture, make sure the scales are similar. For example, Orla’s best for smaller pieces like our Milo stool; Francesca grand for larger pieces like our Charlie headboard; and Emma for medium-scale pieces (and particularly our Matilda armchair, although we have also experimented with it for sofas before). For curtains and blinds, Emma, Orla, or the smaller Francesca print are best on a full blind or as a curtain border, while the larger Francesca grand print is better for curtains for large windows.

If you have children or pets at home, we’d suggest choosing one of the designs with an unbleached base fabric for upholstery (that’s all the Emma and Orla colourways but not Francesca). Slightly darker than the bright white versions, they’ll be more forgiving when it comes to marks.

Printed linen at a glance

In this collection: Francesca, Emma, Orla
Best suited to: curtains and blinds, armchairs, footstools, dining chairs, bar stools, headboards, cushions
Use it in: sitting room, dining room, bedroom
Style: traditional, relaxed, country, formal (Francesca)
Lifestyle: adult-only, family, and pet homes

Woven linen

Our Samuel woven linen comes in two muted colourways and has a soft drape and irregular stripe for a relaxed feel. It’s a design that’s all about creating a subtle accent. Because of its widely spaced, irregular stripes, however, it’s really best suited to headboards, cushions, curtains and blinds, and plain footstool designs such as Eloise.

Samuel has a high rub count, which means it’s suitable for everyday use and will wear well over time.

Woven linen at a glance

In this collection: ³§²¹³¾³Ü±ð±ôÌý
Best suited to: curtains and blinds, headboards, footstools, cushions
Use it in: sitting room, dining room, bedroom, kitchen (as blinds)
Style: relaxed, country, coastal, traditional
Lifestyle: adult-only, family, and pet homes

Cotton linen (fine)

Our versatile cotton linens combine cotton’s elasticity, strength and softness with the subtle texture of linen. Linara has a soft, peach-skin feel and makes a good option for loose-covered upholstery, like our Long Island and Charlie sofas � as well as bench and seat cushions. Its draping qualities are also ideal for curtains and blinds.

Linara is machine washable if you choose a design with loose covers, but just know that the darker and richer colourways may fade. It’s also worth saying that, although thisÌýfabric isÌýmore than strong enough for family life, being so plain, it will show stains more easily.

Cotton linen (fine) at a glance

In this collection: Linara
Best suited to: curtains and blinds, sofas, armchairs, footstools, dining chairs, bar stools, headboards, cushions
Use it in: sitting room, dining room, study
Style: versatile
Lifestyle: adult-only, family and pet homes (loose covers are machine washable)

Washed linen (fine)

Imogen’s a delicate fabric that’s suited to light use, so it’s best to avoid using it to upholster sofas or dining chairs (it also has a slightly looser weave, so we wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for homes with cats). Made from 100% linen, it offers a laidback look in two subdued shades and will help to soften spaces.

Use Imogen for occasional furniture, such as our Alex footstool, on headboards, for cushions, or even for curtains with a more relaxed, rumpled look.

Washed linen (fine) at a glance

In this collection: Imogen
Best suited to: headboards, occasional chairs and stools, cushions, curtains and blinds
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room
Style: relaxed, laidback, coastal
Lifestyle: adult-only home

Original linen (heavy)

A great all-rounder, Hugo works in almost every room of the house. The thick, uniform weave tends to suit more traditional homes, and brings a lovely formality to upholstered pieces, but has the versatility to feel more relaxed as well, depending on the rest of the space. In a selection of understated colourways, it’s a timeless option too.

The 100% linen, thick weave also means it’s hardwearing and holds its shape well, so it looks especially great on sofas (our first choice would be Olivia) and armchairs. If you have pets that use your furniture though, we’d suggest going for a tighter weave (like Harry, Chloe or the fine cotton linens) as they could potentially get their claws into Hugo.

Original linen (heavy) at a glance

In this collection: Hugo
Best suited to: sofas, armchairs, dining chairs, bar stools, headboards, footstools
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room, dining room, study
Style: versatile
Lifestyle: adult-only and family homes

Performance linen

The most robust of our fabrics, Archie’s a reliable upholstery choice for busy family homes. The durability of this fabric makes it slightly firmer, so it’s best used for pieces in active daytime spaces, rather than cosy snugs, and we wouldn’t use it for cushions or window treatments.

A natural choice for sofas that are used daily, Archie’s also great for dining chairs and bar stools, and can handle much of what busy family life throws at it.

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Performance linen at a glance

In this collection: Archie
Best suited to: sofas and armchairs, footstools, dining chairs and bar stools
Use it in: playroom, sitting room, dining room
Style: versatile
Lifestyle: family and pet homes

Character linen (fine)

Our finer character linen, Harry, is a relaxed fabric with excellent drapability. Machine washable and with a stain repellent coating, it’s a safe choice for homes with children and pets too.

Use Harry on a loose cover sofa design such as Long Island for a laidback look, or if you prefer something more structured, on a headboard such as Charlie or Olivia. The natural slubs in the weave will bring texture and interest to these larger-scale designs. Harry’s flowing drape also makes it a favourite for curtains and blinds.

Character linen (fine) at a glance

In this collection: Harry
Best suited to: headboards, occasional chairs and stools, sofas, curtains and blinds, dining chairs
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room, dining room
Style: versatile
Lifestyle: adult-only, family and pet homes (stain repellant, and loose covers are machine washable)

Character linen (medium)

The thicker of our two character linens, Chloe’s an unstructured fabric by nature. The stonewashed finish gives it a very soft and supple quality, so it’s particularly complementary in spaces with a lived-in look and feel, and when used for long curtains.

Alternatively, if you want to achieve a slightly more structured look with Chloe, use it on fixed upholstery pieces, rather than designs with loose covers.

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Character linen (medium) at a glance

In this collection: Chloe
Best suited to: headboards, sofas, armchairs, footstools, dining chairs, bar stools, curtains
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room, dining room, snug
Style: relaxed, laidback, versatile
Lifestyle: adult-only, family and pet homes (loose covers are machine washable)

Velvet

The perfect statement fabric, use Isla wherever you want to create impact. Sofas and headboards are natural choices, while armchairs and footstools will allow you to introduce velvet on a slightly smaller scale.

Studs and velvet make for a perfect partnership, as do buttons, so our Eva, Shoreditch, Casper, Lottie, George and Charlotte collections upholstered in Isla are well worth considering. And while traditional laid velvets are prone to crushing, Isla’s multidirectional pile resists pressure marks, making it much better suited to everyday � and family � use too.

Even so, it is worth knowing that velvet will take on more character over time than linen, cotton or wool. For that reason, we wouldn’t suggest it for homes with pets that use the furniture, and also only in formal dining rooms as liquids will stain.

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Velvet at a glance

In this collection: Isla
Best suited to: headboards, sofas, armchairs, footstools, curtains
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room, snug
Style: contemporary or traditional, semi-formal Lifestyle: adult-only and family homes

Wool

Wool is a smart choice if you have a young family and pets as it’s naturally water resistant, incredibly hardwearing, and, with natural flecks in the yarns, less likely to show marks. Our wools are great for sofas and armchairs, dining chairs and bar stools, and offer another way to bring texture and pared-back pattern (if you so desire) into a room.

Choose from our plain wool, Angus, Elliott’s herringbone pattern (a lovely fit for a study), or Hector’s understated check. For a lighter, less traditional look, you can pair our wool fabrics with our linens, or to embrace cosiness, use alongside our Isla velvet.

Wool at a glance

In this collection: Hector, Elliot, Angus
Best suited to: sofas, armchairs, footstools, dining chairs, bar stools, headboards, winter window treatments
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room, snug, dining room, study
Style: traditional, more formal
Lifestyle: adult-only, family and pet homes

Harris Tweed

The most traditional of our fabrics, Harris Tweed is made to a very high standard in the Outer Hebrides.

As with all wools, it’s naturally water resistant, but it’s also been through an extra milling process to make it even stronger and more durable for upholstery too. In comparison to our regular wool collection, it has a slightly looser, thicker weave (so that is something to take note of if you have pets particularly prone to clawing).

The rich colour choices make Harris Tweed particularly great for armchairs and headboards in snugs and cosy bedrooms.

Harris Tweed at a glance

In this collection: Harris Tweed
Best suited to: headboards, sofas, armchairs, footstools
Use it in: bedroom, sitting room, snug, study
Style: traditional, formal
Lifestyle: adult-only, family and pet homes

Leather

Although leather doesn’t fall within our fabric collection, it’s another great option for some of our upholstered pieces, so we’ve included Barnaby in the list.

Like velvet, a high-quality leather like this will develop character over time. It’s why we think it’s best for smaller designs like occasional armchairs or footstools, rather than whole sofas (although, as you’d expect, it does suit our Chesterfield-style Lottie sofa), where it’ll bring another texture and dimension to your space. You can absolutely use it in a home with children or pets if you’re happy to embrace marks and scuffs as a natural part of ageing leather.

Our leather colourway, Saddle, is a classic tan shade. You could incorporate it into a more contemporary space, but we do think it has a classic feel to it.

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Leather at a glance

In this collection: Barnaby
Best suited to: occasional chairs, Lottie, footstools, dining chairs
Use it in: sitting room, snug, study, dining room
Style: traditional
Lifestyle: adult-only home

Explore the fabric library here, or order your free swatches. It’s worth noting that our Archie performance linen and Barnaby leather aren’t available by the metre.

What’s the most important thing when it comes to kitchen installation?

The most important thing with any kitchen installation is levelling. No floor is flat, not even in a brand new property, and if a kitchen isn’t levelled, it will affect the structural integrity of the cabinet and the doors and drawers won’t open properly. It’s important that installations are tailored to every kitchen and a good fitter will use a laser line to mark up the room and scribe the cabinets to the floor. When cabinets arrive fully finished and painted, it’s easy to think they look straight and perfect when they’re set out in position. It’s not until the heavy countertop is installed on top that the lack of levelling shows up. Expert fitters will use an electric planer to trim the stiles down and ensure they sit totally flat to the floor, in turn creating a level surface for the worksurface to sit on.

How important is it to use an approved kitchen fitter?

It’s important to make sure that the person fitting your kitchen is properly qualified and that the cabinetry comes with a guarantee that covers you for any faults or adjustments needed in the years to come. Often, in order to warrant a guarantee, you’ll need to have used an accredited fitter. At Neptune, we offer a lifetime guarantee on all of our kitchens but only if they have been installed by an approved fitter. To gain accreditation and reach our exacting standards, our fitters have to have undergone a weeks� training by our installation experts and designers.

How do the design and materials affect the installation process?

The design and materials used in the construction of a kitchen are really important. At Neptune we make sure the materials we use are solid and not a reconstituted version of its original, such as chipboard or MDF, which are reconstituted timber, formed using formaldehyde and resins. We use ply and solid timber. Ply is stronger, structurally sounder and is resistant to water which is just what you’ll want for a hardwearing kitchen, but also one that is holding the weight of a heavy countertop. The design is also significant so look out for the details in the kitchen cabinetry which should be a box properly built with solid sides, bases and backs rather than a single unit with mechanical adjustments at the base. Most chipboard kitchens are constructed using a chipboard base, chipboard sides and chipboard/hardboard back and rails at the top to hold the sides together. Basically that ‘unit� is not structurally ‘sound� until they are screwed together and/or screwed back to a wall. At Neptune we don’t make kitchen ‘units�. We’re true cabinet makers, all our kitchen cabinets have ply sides, base and a solid ply top. We make a proper box, that is structural in its own right before it’s even fitted in the kitchen.

What else affects the quality and longevity of Neptune’sÌýkitchens?

At Neptune we make cabinets that could last a lifetime. Take the door hinges as an example, we use a traditional butt hinge. There is no adjustment to the hinge as it never needs adjusting. The screws that secure the hinge are going into the solid timber frame and are there for the lifetime of the cabinet. Neptune’s painted kitchens are finished by hand using a durable water based eggshell paint. In years to come, should you wish to restyle the kitchen, all it needs is a very light sand, just to key the surface, and the kitchen can be transformed by changing its colour and possibly the knobs and handles.

Click here to explore our kitchen collections further, or if you'd like to book a kitchen design consultation, click here.Ìý

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Graduated drawers

In our Chichester grand chest of drawers and dresser, and in some of the cabinets in our Chichester and Suffolk kitchens, if you look very closely you’ll spot that the bottom drawers are, almost imperceptibly, deeper than the top ones. This is one of those largely unnoticeable aesthetic details that, actually, is pretty important. It’s not something you’ll see in all our pieces � some suit the simpler, symmetrical look of equally-sized drawers (in fact, in some drawer groupings, we’ll make an extra-deep bottom drawer look like two individual ones to preserve the rhythm of three or four identical drawers) � but in those where we do use it, it lends a sense of balance that complements that particular design. It’s also practical, making room for bigger things in the bottom and creating shallower, more useable spaces for littler items in the top.

Zig-zag shelf support

Some traditional furniture features just can’t be improved upon. And our zig-zag shelf supports are a case in point. These saw-tooth-like (or, in ³¢¾±³¾±ð³ó´Ç³Ü²õ±ð’s case, castellated) pieces of timber that run the height of a cabinet and are used to hold its shelves are a feature of many an antique dresser, but are usually replaced in modern designs with hole and pin supports because they’re cheaper (our Chawton cabinetry is the only design that uses these in our collection, because the grid-like layout that’s an important part of its character looks best when the shelves are arranged in certain, fixed positions. But we’ve used super-strong, black-bronze pins that coordinate with its hardware so they’re not much of a compromise). We think zig-zag supports are (usually) better though, because they allow you to easily place the shelves just about wherever you like and they also look lovely, either painted or in oak to match the rest of the interior depending on the design.

Considered Catches

Open any of the doors in our kitchens, dressers or sideboards and you’ll spot a couple of different catch styles. Some pieces use traditional roller catches to suit the style of furniture � notably our Chichester collection. These come in a chrome finish to match Chichester’s handles and hinges, and they close the door tight with a satisfying clunk. What’s special about them though is that they can be tightened or loosened to suit your preference and so they continue to function over time.

Other designs have magnetic catches. These work by concealing a small magnet within the frame of the door which holds securely onto the corresponding magnet in the discreet catch that’s fitted within the cabinet. They come in four finishes � chrome, brass, bronze and black-bronze � to match any of our other hardware styles, and are cushioned with a leather pad so, when you close the door, it’s more of a muffled thump than a sharp bang.

Lastly, the Limehouse kitchen cabinetry has a particularly special door stopper style: a piston that’s concealed behind a small piece of oak, and that cushions the door as it closes.

The stand-out cabinetry accessories

Less like details, more like entire pieces that bring a whole lot of useful and beautiful design.

Chichester charging station: a leather and oak platform that will slip into a drawer to make light work of tidying charging cables. Featuring nylon wheels that hold cables in place but don’t give them kinks, ties on the underside to wrap up excess cables, and a shape that makes taking the station in and out of the drawer easy.

Drawer & cupboard organisers: spice trays that make finding the jar you need a lot quicker; larder bridges that allow you to see what’s at the back of the cupboard; knife blocks that keep sharp blades safely within drawers; stainless steel-lined cubbies for storing wet sponges; cutlery dividers for every shape and size of utensil. And all beautifully made from oak, black-bronze, quartz or rattan.

Pan drawer protectors: a feature that was born in our Henley kitchen � where the bottom drawers have in-built black-bronze rods to prevent pans from scratching the oak or leaving water marks � that’s now possible in any kitchen drawer thanks to our leather and stainless steel Ranmoor protector.

As you explore our website, you’ll notice we’ve included ‘design & engineering� details for each of our designs to highlight what makes them special. If you’re visiting us in store, just ask one of the team and they’ll be happy to do the same.

There’s quite a bit to cover, and this is possibly one guide you’ll want to settle down to with a cup of tea. But, if you’re in a hurry, you’ll find a little summary after each step, as well as a timeline at the end.

Step one: get to know your room

If you’ve ever planted a garden before, chances are the first piece of advice you heard was to find out what kind of soil you’re working with and to watch how the light moves around the space over the day. And the same goes for your interior.

Start doing this now, before you move out of your room or make any changes. Living in it is the best way to understand what works and what doesn’t.

Features

Begin by making note of any of the features in your room that you can’t or don’t want to change � usually these will be architectural details like skirting, coving and door frames, but they could also be structural features such as staircases and walls, or purely practical ones, like the position of plug sockets. Then, think about whether they’re aspects that you want to celebrate or fade into the background. In an extension, you’ll be able to control which features are in your room, but it’s still a good idea to familiarise yourself with things like pillars, staircases and doors that are set in place.

Views

Next, look at (or ask your architect to help you visualise) the view through your windows from every angle � including at sitting height. You don’t want to plan your seating area only to find that there’s a distracting view of a telegraph pole from that spot which you hadn’t noticed before.

Do the same thing from your doorways too. You’ll want to make sure that you’re not greeted by the back of a sofa or cables down the side of a console table whenever you walk in, so bear this in mind when you’re placing furniture.

Light

There’s a lot we could say about light, and it can all get quite technical. But when it comes to picking paint colours and knowing how much artificial light you’ll need to add, the most important thing to do is to watch how the light changes over the course of the day.

Start with working out the direction of your room (most phones will have a compass app on them). There are some general assumptions you can make, knowing that east-facing rooms will be brightest early in the morning, and that the light in a west-facing space will be much warmer in the latter part of the day. But try not to rely on them. Not many rooms face straight in one direction, and the number and size of your windows, as well as any light coming in from other rooms, will all make a difference.

So, keep popping back into your room at different times (especially when you’d normally use the space anyway) and in different weathers, and make a note of how dark or light it felt.

In short: really spend time looking at your room � the amount of natural light, the view out the window from every angle, and the existing architectural features. They’re all things that’ll decide the colours you use, the artificial lighting you’ll need to add and where you’ll position your furniture.

Step two: think about how you live

How and when do you use your space?

It might seem obvious, but really consider how and when you use the room, because it’s not always so straightforward as ‘this is a kitchen�, ‘this is a sitting room�. It might be that your kitchen is busiest for only a couple of hours late in the day. Or that, although you only use your sitting room in the evening during the week, you’re in and out all day at the weekends. Knowing details like these can help you make better choices when it comes to colours and lighting, and whether you maybe need to rethink your room’s purpose. So, your living room that faces east will be bathed in light in the morning, which means you might want to create a spot in there where you can enjoy your coffee. But, you’ll also know that it needs a bit of help from artificial light over the rest of the day. And, your kitchen will feel cosiest if you paint it in a darker, richer colour, because it’s usually lit by lamp � or candle � light.

And how do you move around it?

Layout is an important part of your project and should come earlier than you think, because it’ll affect all the furniture you buy. So, before you do anything to your space, think about the way you move around it.

If you have to walk through one area to get to another, you’ll want to position your furniture so it breaks up your journey, rather than creating a walkway through the middle that then makes the room feel like a corridor.

Or, if it’s a very practical space, like a bootroom, you’ll want to do the opposite and make sure that, when you’re struggling through with a muddy dog or wet raincoats, that there’s nothing getting in the way of where you need to be. It’s something that’s especially important in a kitchen, so come armed with this information when you meet your designer.

In short: give yourself a design brief with no more than three goals in order of importance, based on how you live your life e.g. this room needs to feel cosy in the evening, and it’ll include a home office as well as a sitting area. That’ll make sure your project stays focused and relevant. Then, think about all the routes through the room and whether you want to slow your journey or keep it clear.Ìý

Do you need the advice of an expert?
If you’re building a whole new room, reconfiguring your home’s layout or designing a kitchen, you’ll most likely be working with someone who knows what they’re doing already. But, if your project’s less full-on, it can still be something worth thinking about. An interior designer � like our in-store home designers � will be able to help you with aspects like the layout and flow of your space, as well as colours, furniture and accessories. And they’ll also be able to make suggestions you might not have thought about before, but that could have a big impact on your space.

If there are parts of your room you’d rather weren’t there but you’re not sure whether they can be changed, we’d also always suggest seeking out the advice of an expert. Even if it’s just a quick visit from a builder, they’ll be able to give you an idea of how much would be involved, the kind of costs you could expect, and indeed, whether what you’re thinking is possible.

Step three: set your budget

Having found out how much the work (if you’re doing any) will cost, now’s a good time to set your budget if you haven’t already. It’ll stop you from getting carried away when you move onto the next step, and you’ll need to know it before you book any tradespeople.

Step four: create a moodboard and sample board

Gathering inspiration is something you can do over years (and if you have a Pinterest board, chance are you are already). But definitely think about putting a moodboard together before you do anything in your room � it’ll affect not just the style of your room, but also the structure and layout, depending on whether you’re after a cosy or spacious feel.

Gather inspiration

Whether it’s a scrapbook, shoe box or Pinterest board, we suggest having a place where you can start collecting anything that appeals to you. Don’t think too deeply about what you include for now � we’ll come on to editing your inspiration down next � just save the things you really love. They might be images found online, torn out of magazines or snapped on your phone, nature finds, packaging and even household objects. Inspiration can come from all sorts of places, like the colours that someone’s put together in their outfit or the mood created by a landscape, so don’t feel that you need to stick to just interiors.

Edit it down

Once you have your inspiration collected, it’s time to whittle it down to something more considered. Look at all your images and objects together and you’ll see which ones stand out (for the wrong reasons). You should also take away any that you don’t completely love, for instance, if the colours are right but the feeling is wrong. Be ruthless � it’s the way to an interior that’s calm, not confused. Then, combine everything you’re left with into a moodboard, either a physical or digital one, so you can take it with you when you’re shopping.

Collect samples

By this point, you’ll be able to see patterns emerging in your moodboard: colours and textures that keep repeating. This will make it much easier when you’re in a store or looking at a paint chart to home in on what’ll work and not be distracted by anything else. Pick up samples wherever you can, not just of paint and fabric, but flooring, tiles, wood finishes and woven textures too. Then, just like you did with your moodboard, gather these together in one place � a sample board � where you can see them all side-by-side and refer back to them easily.

You should do this before you buy anything, but it’s also a good idea to know which flooring and tiles you’d like before you find the person who’ll fit them, because they may need specialist skills and can affect your quotes.

In short: make sure you have somewhere you can collect all your inspiration in one place, and be strict with what you keep to influence your interior. Then, use this inspiration to help you pick out samples.

Do your research Whether you’re working with a designer or not, it pays to do a little reading.

Research is something you can start at any time � the earlier the better. Just make sure you do it before you make any major decisions about layout, colour or furniture. And doing it before you talk to a designer means you’re well-informed.

Step five: build your team

If you’re having any work done to your room � moving plug sockets around, ripping up skirting, laying flooring or even just painting and hanging wallpaper � and you’re not DIY-inclined (or confident you can do the job safely), you’ll need to find tradespeople to work with. There are all sorts of ways you can do this, but word-of-mouth is still the best method in our opinion. If you’re new to the area and can’t rely on a friend’s recommendation, ask in-store as well � many interiors shops will happily share their local contacts.

Failing that, read as many reviews as you can. Independent review sites such as Feefo and Trustpilot are a good place to look, as are the ratings on Google. And always ask if you can see images of a tradesperson’s work first � or, even better, visit yourself � and talk to someone they’ve worked with before.

Either way, start looking for someone as early as you can: the best tradespeople can book up months in advance, and potentially more if yours is a large project.

In short: ask around � often the very best tradespeople are the ones that are recommended by a friend � and do it well in advance.

Your timeline

Every project is different, and the amount of time you spend on yours could be years or just a few short weeks. But this will give you an idea of the order you’ll want to do things in.

1. Get to know your room and think about how you live.

2. Create a moodboard.

3. Do your research.

4. Seek expert advice.

5. Set your budget.

6. Make your sample board.

7. Build your team.

If you’re finding the prospect of your project too daunting, then our home designers are waiting in the wings to help. You’ll find them in many of our stores throughout the UK � just get in touch with your nearest to book your free initial consultation.

Colour schemes

With paint, it’s easy to end up with tones that are either too cold or too warm, or to get confused by which white goes best with your accent shade. To remove the guesswork, we keep our palettes scrupulously organised. ‘Our core collection consists of 28 colours, grouped into handy families of four � you can be sure that if you use one shade, there are always three other perfect pairings,� says George, home designer at our Fulham store. At a glance, you’ll spot which quartets will create either a cool or cosy scheme, making it easy to coordinate walls with our bespoke-painted furniture. ‘We also have a seasonal palette that we add to each year, where you’ll find our bolder colour choices,� adds George. These seasonal hues eventually go into our archive, so you can always request an old favourite to spice up a new scheme.

Walls and ceilings

Here, our collection is small, but perfectly formed. ‘For timeless elegance, the Elcot ceramic brick tiles come in four colours designed to complement our paints,� says Jessica, who’s the home designer at our Cheltenham store. ‘There are three sizes so you can create something unique that complements your other design choices. The Kennet marble tiles in brick, herringbone or hexagonal patterns are a more indulgent version.� Like our tiles, the Hepworth linen-effect wallcovering adds subtle texture. ‘It brings warmth to neutral schemes and flatters our wooden furniture,� says Jessica. Finally, there’s Cranbrook shiplap, a modern-rustic, rough spruce boarding that adds natural cosiness, matches any colour scheme and works just as well on the ceiling as it does on walls.

Floors

There are nine robust stone floors in our collection, plus engineered wood planks, herringbone and chevron boards in three colours. Because every shade is grounded in nature, they’ll combine to create a sense of flow around your home, and tone effortlessly with Neptune furniture. ‘There’s something to suit every interior,� says George. ‘With stone tiles, you can even mix different designs to create a chequerboard style.� Rugs come in organic materials that chime perfectly with wood and stone. ‘The focus is on different textures � flat weaves for high-traffic areas, and chunky wool designs that feel soft underfoot in relaxing spaces.

Hardware

Ironmongery is like jewellery for the home, and just as transformative. Ours is inspired by time-honoured designs like classic D-handles, and can make a room feel more polished or more functional according to the finish. ‘There are six choices � from chrome to brass or oak and leather � which evoke every style from traditional country to industrial,� says George.

Fabrics

‘Texture is what gives a home character, and fabric is the easiest way to achieve that,� says George. ‘Our fabrics are edited so everything works in unison, and in harmony with our paint colours.� Natural fibres � wool, cotton-velvet and pure linen � make perfect sense together and create sensual contrasts. Patterns are always unfussy, with a choice of understated florals, stripes or geometrics. ‘Some are small repeats, others more expansive, but all live happily together.�

Explore our decorating collection online here, where you can also order paint samples and fabric swatches. For samples of our flooring, wall covering and hardware, just heads to or get in touch with your nearest Neptune store.