1. Ask yourself, what is the motivation behind a kitchen redesign?ÌýÌý

Understanding the reason for a kitchen redesign will help you to focus on the outcomes you hope to achieve with your new space. Maybe there are areas of your current kitchen that you feel need improvement â€� what are they? Are there features missing that are non-negotiable for your new kitchen, such as a double fridge, additional storage or a more accessible layout?ÌýÌýÌý

2. Create a mood and sample boardÌýÌý

If you’ve been thinking about a new kitchen for a while, the chances are you already have a few ideas of how you want the space to look. Whether it’s a digital Pinterest board or a box filled with samples and magazine tears, pulling everything together into one moodboard is a great place to start. Be strict with what you keep on your board, whether it’s a colour theme, a style or certain appliances, editing down your board to something you can easily refer back to and use to help guide the fabrics, tiles, floor and paint samples you want to collect. It’ll also be invaluable when working with a designer, giving them a clear vision to work from.Ìý

3. Get to know your roomÌý

Take time to really observe your kitchen â€� the amount of natural light, the view out the window from every angle, and any existing architectural features. They’re all things that’ll decide the colours you use, lighting you may need, and where to position your furniture. Start doing this now, before you move out of your kitchen or make any changes. Living in it as it is, is the best way to understand what works and what doesn’t.Ìý

There are three main areas to consider:Ìý

FeaturesÌý
Begin by making note of any features in your kitchen that you can’t or don’t want to change â€� usually these will be architectural details like door frames, skirting and coving, but they could also be structural features such as walls, or purely practical ones, like the position of plug sockets. Ì첩ÌåÓý¹ÙÍø are high-traffic areas so understanding the space â€� from doorways to appliances to seating â€� will dictate the flow and layout.Ìý

ViewsÌý
Look at (or ask your architect to help visualise) the view through your windows from every angle â€� including at sitting height for islands and dining tables. You don’t want to plan a dining area only to find there’s a distracting view which you hadn’t noticed before. Do the same thing from your doorways, too. You’ll want to make sure that you’re not greeted by cables down the side of a fridge or an island with bar stools obstructing the entrance.ÌýÌý

Light
When it comes to picking paint colours or planning artificial lighting, the most important thing to do is watch how the light changes over the course of the day. Start with working out the direction of your kitchen â€� most phones have a compass app on them which can help. There are some general assumptions you can make, knowing that east-facing rooms will be brightest early in the morning, and that the light in a west-facing space will be much warmer in the latter part of the day. However, not many rooms face straight in one direction, and the number and size of your windows, as well as any light coming in from other rooms, will all make a difference.ÌýÌý

Our best tip?

Keep coming back into your kitchen at different times of the day (especially when you’d normally use the space) and in different weather. Make a note of how dark or light it feels. This will help guide you on whether you need additional spotlights or task lights for food prep areas, or pendants on a dimmer for over the island to create more ambience.ÌýÌý

4.ÌýThink about how you liveÌý

How and when do you use the kitchen?Ìý

It might seem obvious, but really consider how and when you use your kitchen. Is it mainly for prepping meals at the start and end of the day? Or does it become the heart of the home at weekends â€� somewhere for entertaining and enjoying long dinners together?Ìý Knowing that you want it to feel intimate and cosy for entertaining, for example, means you could paint it in a darker, richer colour and focus on lamp or candlelight. Or if you need it to be fully functional you would consider more task lighting and spacious work surfaces.ÌýÌý

Who is using the kitchen?Ìý

It’s important to think about who uses the kitchen and what they need from the layout. For example, how much access and space do you need between islands and cabinetry? Do you need a ladder installed to reach higher cabinetry? Is the cooker hood high enough to avoid collisions with taller family members? Some cooks require plenty of uninterrupted worksurface space, while others prioritise a double larder to store away kitchen gadgets. The more you tailor the design to suit your lifestyle, the better the kitchen will work for everyone.

5. What appliancesÌýare non-negotiables?Ìý

Understanding what you need in the kitchen to best suit your lifestyle is an important step. What type of cooking arrangement do you need? Do you need an extra-large fridge, a slimline dishwasher or a hob with 5-6 cooking zones? Is the space going to be used for future entertaining of family parties, Easter and Christmas? If so, it’s a good idea to consider at this time what appliances you need and plot them first to ensure the correct spacing is given around each one, and then cabinetry comes secondary to be positioned around this layout.ÌýÌý

6. Set yourÌýcosting rangeÌý

Kitchen costs should be clearly defined at the start of your project. Having researched how much the work (if you’re doing any) will cost and what appliances you require, now’s a good time to set what the bottom and top of your budget is. It’ll help you to stay within a range you’re comfortable with and it’s something you need in place before you book any tradespeople.ÌýÌý

Ìý7. Build your teamÌý

If you’re having any work done to your kitchen before cabinetry and appliances are fitted â€� electric work, laying flooring or even just painting â€� and you’re not DIY-inclined (or confident you can do the job safely), you’ll need to find tradespeople to work with. The earlier you do this the better, as many tradespeople get booked up months in advance. Word-of-mouth is often the way to find the best tradespeople, those recommended by a friend or even ask in store as many will happily share their local contacts. If you’re planning a larger project or need support in the design process, our kitchen designers will be able to help you with aspects like the layout and flow of your space, as well as colours, appliances and accessories. And they’ll also be able to make suggestions you might not have thought about before, but that could have a big impact on your space. Our Kitchen Design Service provides a trusted service from initial consultation through to installation and our lifetime guarantee. Ìý

8. When to install a new kitchen?

One final consideration when embarking on a kitchen project is the time of year you are looking to complete the project. Kitchen re-designs can cause disruption to life and the lack of kitchen facilities can be inconvenient. The spring and summer are popular times of year to complete a project as you can be less reliant on your kitchen appliances, there is more potential for cold foods like salads and having BBQs, whereas the autumn and winter means considering how to accommodate warm food preparations in a temporary kitchen space. It’s also worth considering that tradespeople and suppliers may be busier or unavailable with the lead up to Christmas and the New Year, which could mean gaps in project completion. If you have a young family, school holidays or exam time are also big considerations that can sometimes be overlooked.Ìý

Ìý

If you need any advice on fitting a new kitchen, book a free initialÌýdesign consultation with our expert kitchen designers to learn more.Ìý

King among kitchen tables is the Arundel refectory table. Solidly unfussy, its pure and simple lines combine form and function to create a timeless piece that can be passed down from generation to generation. With solid A-frame legs, visible dowel lock joins, optional extending leaves, the deep and chunky (45mm) tabletop, and a textured finish in solid oak, it fits seamlessly into both contemporary and traditional kitchens.

When it came to designing the Arundel, oak was always going to be the first choice of material. Our timber comes principally from the Appalachian Mountains, where trees are planted at a faster rate than they’re felled (currently at a replacement rate of 2.5 times) and the oak is prized for its durability, tactility and beauty. Oak also has a long history in British furniture making. And, the Arundel’s Natural Oak finish, which is wire-brushed to highlight the grain, adds a mellow warmth to the kitchen space.

Ìý

Ìý

On a practical level, the design team were aware that kitchen tables see a lot of action and need protecting to prolong their lifetimes, but they were also keen not to lose the raw quality of the oak. Luckily, our ±õ²õ´Ç³Ò³Ü²¹°ù»å® sealant protects timber without detracting from its natural beauty. Unlike a traditional varnish or veneer, which leaves a layer sitting on top of the wood, ±õ²õ´Ç³Ò³Ü²¹°ù»å® works on a penetrative level, soaking into the wood andÌýbinding to the raw cellulose that it finds, coating it in a fine protective film, so leaving the wood surface looking and feeling naturally beautiful.Ìý

Historically, the un-hierarchical nature of the refectory table meant it was used in the dining halls of medieval monasteries where it fostered a mood of togetherness and belonging amongst the monks and their guests. And that sense of conviviality is continued today, where the informality of the tables suits busy family life and fits well into large or extended kitchens or acts as the central point in a kitchen layout where an island might otherwise sit.

Bench seating is the classic choice for a refectory table, and the Arundel solid oak bench is available as a two-, three- or four-seater, with the option of a comfy, non-slip cushion for those who prefer a softer touch. Equally, kitchen chairs work well with the Arundel, and you could consider the Wardley dining chair as a complementary piece or try combining the best of both worlds with benches running the length of the table and Wardley carver chairs at either end.

Ìý

Whatever iteration your kitchen table takes, it’s ultimately the spot where family life plays out, guests are hosted, and memories made. The table is a special piece of furniture that earns its place in our homes and hearts.

Shop Arundel Collection.

Clear out

Before you can organise your cupboards, you need to do a big clear out. Remove any out of date foods (yes, we all have a few herb jars from 2015) and also pull out any foods that you know you’ll realistically not use. Rather like sorting out your wardrobe, be honest with yourself and question whether you will use the tinned fruit you bought for a recipe you now can’t find. ‘Instead, deliver them swiftly to a food bank where others will be very pleased to have them,� advises Vicky.

Categorise

Now you have the foodstuffs and equipment that you want to store, organise them into categories � dried pulses, jars, boxes of cereals, snacks and so on. Within the categories, organise the foods by sell-by dates with the longest at the back of the shelf, rather as a supermarket would do. ‘If you organise the shelves like a shop front, you’ll soon realise what you’re over-buying on,� says Vicky.

Store for taste

Cool, dark larder cupboards can be useful for storing items that would otherwise need to go into a fridge. Meaghan suggests using a bottom shelf with a marble base, such as the larder in ourÌýSuffolkÌýkitchen collection, for storing vegetables like onions, garlic and potatoes in wire baskets, as the marble will naturally keep the produce cool. ‘Tomatoes for example, will taste infinitely better straight from the larder as opposed to the fridge,â€� she explains, ‘as will avocados, apples and oranges.â€�

Packaging decisions

Decant what you want intoÌýglass jarsÌýor Tupperware, but don’t get carried away with swapping packaging in order to create a photogenic Insta-moment. ‘You don’t need tins of baked beans in wicker baskets,â€� laughs Vicky. ‘This is about making life as logical as possible.â€� Meaghan adds, ‘Glass jars work well for things that you want to keep air-tight (like coffees, teas and dried goods), whereas wire baskets work better for fruit or veg, where you don’t restrict the airflow.â€� Disappointing as it might be for lovers of Kilner jars, square containers are more space efficient on a shelf. Vicky recommends Oxo Pop Cubes as they come in different sizes and depths and can be stacked. For fiddly items such as bags of crisps, Vicky recommendsÌýbaskets. ‘Empty a multi-pack of crisps into a basket so they are easy to access,â€� she advises.

Eye level

You need to be able to see foods to know what you are running low on and also to inspire you to use them. Vicky’s golden rule is to always have healthy foods at eye level and keep naughty treats out of direct sight. ‘It’s a simple strategy but it’s very effective when you’re trying to eat well,â€� she says. ‘Even in the fridge, I’ll store berries in glass containers at eye level and move the cheese elsewhere.â€� To helpÌý you see clearly in deep cupboard shelving you could add in larder accessories such as theÌýBarlow Larder BridgeÌýwhich can be placed inside your larder toÌýhelp you arrange deep cupboard shelves: it lifts up whatever’s at the back so you can see it clearly.

Name it

The easiest way to label the foods that you’re decanting is to cut out the product label and sell-by information, slip it into the top of the jar and stick it on the underside of the lid. Alternatively, Meaghan uses a white chalk pen on the jar: ‘It works a treat â€� quick to do and easy to wipe off again.â€� For the seriously committed, Vicky suggests aÌý. ‘Ultimately, larders are working cupboards,â€� says Vicky. ‘Organising them will make them look good but they need to make practical sense as well.â€�

Ìý

Each of ourÌýkitchenÌýcollections has its own larder design (or two). You can explore these in any ofÌýour stores. For a freestanding alternative, try our customisableÌýChawton collection.

Ìý

If you’re having a new kitchen fitted�

Look at the big picture and plan storage around functionalÌýelements like the cooker, fridge and sink. This way, you can assign each cupboard a role right from the start, which will make organising them so much more straightforward.

For example, utensils and tools you use every day should be in drawers or cupboards beside the cooker, where you can reach them quickly. Try to plan storage for dry ingredients not too far from the fridge, so you’re not criss-crossing the kitchen in search of things when preppingÌýa meal.Ìý

You’ll nearly always have more things to store than you think, so consider ways to maximise space. Corner cupboards that pivot outwards (such as the one in our cream Suffolk kitchen, pictured) are a clever way to squeeze more storage space into a small area.

Similarly, think about creating space for narrowÌýslots in between cupboards and shelves for things like chopping boards (as in ourÌýHenley larder), or building open and closed storage around an island unit, so you get as much use out of it as possible.

Think about the kitchen essentials you have most of â€� it might be ingredients or gadgets if you’re a foodie, orÌýtablewareÌýif you love entertaining â€� and whether it needs to be shown off or kept out of sight. In our TealÌýSuffolk kitchenÌýscene,ÌýcrockeryÌýis displayedÌýon open shelves, with a ladder for easy access. Because there’s enough space planned for everything, beloved items are much less likely to get broken.

Don’t forget the fine details, such as the height of shelves inside cupboards.ÌýOur internal zig-zag shelving supportsÌýrun the full height ofÌýcupboards, giving you the flexibility to arrange individual shelvesÌýto suit your particular storage needs.

And if you just need a refresh�

If your storage simply needs an overhaul, you could set aside a few hours to empty every cupboard and start from scratch, organising utensils and foodstuffsÌýinto groups and finding better homes for them. Or,Ìýtackle it cupboard by cupboard instead; be ruthless about getting rid of anything you haven’t used for ages or that’s out of date.

Once things are emptied, add some elements that’ll help maintain order in future. OurÌýcabinet accessoriesÌýinclude oak drawer trays with sections for cutlery and wooden spoons, plus niches to keep sharp knives safe and easy to find. ForÌý more tailor-made solution, spice racks and drawer dividers can be added individually to suit your needs.

BasketsÌýare another option, as pictured on theÌýCarter islandÌýin theÌýHenley kitchen. Large, shallow ones are useful for organising flat objects, like stacks ofÌýplatesÌýorÌýtable linensÌýand tea towels. Or use deeper baskets to group things inside a cupboard â€� you could label them as well to make things easy to find.

Think about places you can get more use out of, such as the backs of cupboard doors (or even the sides of kitchen cabinets). Perhaps you can add extra shelves here for small things like spice jars or condiments. If adding extra storage space is a priority, consider a freestanding pantry cupboard or dresser or introduce a flexible storage system like the Chawton collection.ÌýThe former should keep the bulk of your ingredients in one place and free up other storage for kitchen kit (think of it as a larder, even if you don’t have a separate room for one). WhileÌýaÌýmix of open and closed cabinetry isÌýgood for displaying decorative piecesÌýwhileÌýbulky itemsÌýcan be tucked away. Such cabinetryÌýwill also act as a natural transition piece between kitchen and dining areas.

It's time to say hello to your new, improved kitchen.

What’s the most important thing when it comes to kitchen installation?

The most important thing with any kitchen installation is levelling. No floor is flat, not even in a brand new property, and if a kitchen isn’t levelled, it will affect the structural integrity of the cabinet and the doors and drawers won’t open properly. It’s important that installations are tailored to every kitchen and a good fitter will use a laser line to mark up the room and scribe the cabinets to the floor. When cabinets arrive fully finished and painted, it’s easy to think they look straight and perfect when they’re set out in position. It’s not until the heavy countertop is installed on top that the lack of levelling shows up. Expert fitters will use an electric planer to trim the stiles down and ensure they sit totally flat to the floor, in turn creating a level surface for the worksurface to sit on.

How important is it to use an approved kitchen fitter?

It’s important to make sure that the person fitting your kitchen is properly qualified and that the cabinetry comes with a guarantee that covers you for any faults or adjustments needed in the years to come. Often, in order to warrant a guarantee, you’ll need to have used an accredited fitter. At Neptune, we offer a lifetime guarantee on all of our kitchens but only if they have been installed by an approved fitter. To gain accreditation and reach our exacting standards, our fitters have to have undergone a weeks� training by our installation experts and designers.

How do the design and materials affect the installation process?

The design and materials used in the construction of a kitchen are really important. At Neptune we make sure the materials we use are solid and not a reconstituted version of its original, such as chipboard or MDF, which are reconstituted timber, formed using formaldehyde and resins. We use ply and solid timber. Ply is stronger, structurally sounder and is resistant to water which is just what you’ll want for a hardwearing kitchen, but also one that is holding the weight of a heavy countertop. The design is also significant so look out for the details in the kitchen cabinetry which should be a box properly built with solid sides, bases and backs rather than a single unit with mechanical adjustments at the base. Most chipboard kitchens are constructed using a chipboard base, chipboard sides and chipboard/hardboard back and rails at the top to hold the sides together. Basically that ‘unit� is not structurally ‘sound� until they are screwed together and/or screwed back to a wall. At Neptune we don’t make kitchen ‘units�. We’re true cabinet makers, all our kitchen cabinets have ply sides, base and a solid ply top. We make a proper box, that is structural in its own right before it’s even fitted in the kitchen.

What else affects the quality and longevity of Neptune’sÌýkitchens?

At Neptune we make cabinets that could last a lifetime. Take the door hinges as an example, we use a traditional butt hinge. There is no adjustment to the hinge as it never needs adjusting. The screws that secure the hinge are going into the solid timber frame and are there for the lifetime of the cabinet. Neptune’s painted kitchens are finished by hand using a durable water based eggshell paint. In years to come, should you wish to restyle the kitchen, all it needs is a very light sand, just to key the surface, and the kitchen can be transformed by changing its colour and possibly the knobs and handles.

Click here to explore our kitchen collections further, or if you'd like to book a kitchen design consultation, click here.Ìý

Ìý

Graduated drawers

In our Chichester grand chest of drawers and dresser, and in some of the cabinets in our Chichester and Suffolk kitchens, if you look very closely you’ll spot that the bottom drawers are, almost imperceptibly, deeper than the top ones. This is one of those largely unnoticeable aesthetic details that, actually, is pretty important. It’s not something you’ll see in all our pieces � some suit the simpler, symmetrical look of equally-sized drawers (in fact, in some drawer groupings, we’ll make an extra-deep bottom drawer look like two individual ones to preserve the rhythm of three or four identical drawers) � but in those where we do use it, it lends a sense of balance that complements that particular design. It’s also practical, making room for bigger things in the bottom and creating shallower, more useable spaces for littler items in the top.

Zig-zag shelf support

Some traditional furniture features just can’t be improved upon. And our zig-zag shelf supports are a case in point. These saw-tooth-like (or, in ³¢¾±³¾±ð³ó´Ç³Ü²õ±ð’s case, castellated) pieces of timber that run the height of a cabinet and are used to hold its shelves are a feature of many an antique dresser, but are usually replaced in modern designs with hole and pin supports because they’re cheaper (our Chawton cabinetry is the only design that uses these in our collection, because the grid-like layout that’s an important part of its character looks best when the shelves are arranged in certain, fixed positions. But we’ve used super-strong, black-bronze pins that coordinate with its hardware so they’re not much of a compromise). We think zig-zag supports are (usually) better though, because they allow you to easily place the shelves just about wherever you like and they also look lovely, either painted or in oak to match the rest of the interior depending on the design.

Considered Catches

Open any of the doors in our kitchens, dressers or sideboards and you’ll spot a couple of different catch styles. Some pieces use traditional roller catches to suit the style of furniture � notably our Chichester collection. These come in a chrome finish to match Chichester’s handles and hinges, and they close the door tight with a satisfying clunk. What’s special about them though is that they can be tightened or loosened to suit your preference and so they continue to function over time.

Other designs have magnetic catches. These work by concealing a small magnet within the frame of the door which holds securely onto the corresponding magnet in the discreet catch that’s fitted within the cabinet. They come in four finishes � chrome, brass, bronze and black-bronze � to match any of our other hardware styles, and are cushioned with a leather pad so, when you close the door, it’s more of a muffled thump than a sharp bang.

Lastly, the Limehouse kitchen cabinetry has a particularly special door stopper style: a piston that’s concealed behind a small piece of oak, and that cushions the door as it closes.

The stand-out cabinetry accessories

Less like details, more like entire pieces that bring a whole lot of useful and beautiful design.

Chichester charging station: a leather and oak platform that will slip into a drawer to make light work of tidying charging cables. Featuring nylon wheels that hold cables in place but don’t give them kinks, ties on the underside to wrap up excess cables, and a shape that makes taking the station in and out of the drawer easy.

Drawer & cupboard organisers: spice trays that make finding the jar you need a lot quicker; larder bridges that allow you to see what’s at the back of the cupboard; knife blocks that keep sharp blades safely within drawers; stainless steel-lined cubbies for storing wet sponges; cutlery dividers for every shape and size of utensil. And all beautifully made from oak, black-bronze, quartz or rattan.

Pan drawer protectors: a feature that was born in our Henley kitchen � where the bottom drawers have in-built black-bronze rods to prevent pans from scratching the oak or leaving water marks � that’s now possible in any kitchen drawer thanks to our leather and stainless steel Ranmoor protector.

As you explore our website, you’ll notice we’ve included ‘design & engineering� details for each of our designs to highlight what makes them special. If you’re visiting us in store, just ask one of the team and they’ll be happy to do the same.

There’s quite a bit to cover, and this is possibly one guide you’ll want to settle down to with a cup of tea. But, if you’re in a hurry, you’ll find a little summary after each step, as well as a timeline at the end.

Step one: get to know your room

If you’ve ever planted a garden before, chances are the first piece of advice you heard was to find out what kind of soil you’re working with and to watch how the light moves around the space over the day. And the same goes for your interior.

Start doing this now, before you move out of your room or make any changes. Living in it is the best way to understand what works and what doesn’t.

Features

Begin by making note of any of the features in your room that you can’t or don’t want to change � usually these will be architectural details like skirting, coving and door frames, but they could also be structural features such as staircases and walls, or purely practical ones, like the position of plug sockets. Then, think about whether they’re aspects that you want to celebrate or fade into the background. In an extension, you’ll be able to control which features are in your room, but it’s still a good idea to familiarise yourself with things like pillars, staircases and doors that are set in place.

Views

Next, look at (or ask your architect to help you visualise) the view through your windows from every angle � including at sitting height. You don’t want to plan your seating area only to find that there’s a distracting view of a telegraph pole from that spot which you hadn’t noticed before.

Do the same thing from your doorways too. You’ll want to make sure that you’re not greeted by the back of a sofa or cables down the side of a console table whenever you walk in, so bear this in mind when you’re placing furniture.

Light

There’s a lot we could say about light, and it can all get quite technical. But when it comes to picking paint colours and knowing how much artificial light you’ll need to add, the most important thing to do is to watch how the light changes over the course of the day.

Start with working out the direction of your room (most phones will have a compass app on them). There are some general assumptions you can make, knowing that east-facing rooms will be brightest early in the morning, and that the light in a west-facing space will be much warmer in the latter part of the day. But try not to rely on them. Not many rooms face straight in one direction, and the number and size of your windows, as well as any light coming in from other rooms, will all make a difference.

So, keep popping back into your room at different times (especially when you’d normally use the space anyway) and in different weathers, and make a note of how dark or light it felt.

In short: really spend time looking at your room � the amount of natural light, the view out the window from every angle, and the existing architectural features. They’re all things that’ll decide the colours you use, the artificial lighting you’ll need to add and where you’ll position your furniture.

Step two: think about how you live

How and when do you use your space?

It might seem obvious, but really consider how and when you use the room, because it’s not always so straightforward as ‘this is a kitchen�, ‘this is a sitting room�. It might be that your kitchen is busiest for only a couple of hours late in the day. Or that, although you only use your sitting room in the evening during the week, you’re in and out all day at the weekends. Knowing details like these can help you make better choices when it comes to colours and lighting, and whether you maybe need to rethink your room’s purpose. So, your living room that faces east will be bathed in light in the morning, which means you might want to create a spot in there where you can enjoy your coffee. But, you’ll also know that it needs a bit of help from artificial light over the rest of the day. And, your kitchen will feel cosiest if you paint it in a darker, richer colour, because it’s usually lit by lamp � or candle � light.

And how do you move around it?

Layout is an important part of your project and should come earlier than you think, because it’ll affect all the furniture you buy. So, before you do anything to your space, think about the way you move around it.

If you have to walk through one area to get to another, you’ll want to position your furniture so it breaks up your journey, rather than creating a walkway through the middle that then makes the room feel like a corridor.

Or, if it’s a very practical space, like a bootroom, you’ll want to do the opposite and make sure that, when you’re struggling through with a muddy dog or wet raincoats, that there’s nothing getting in the way of where you need to be. It’s something that’s especially important in a kitchen, so come armed with this information when you meet your designer.

In short: give yourself a design brief with no more than three goals in order of importance, based on how you live your life e.g. this room needs to feel cosy in the evening, and it’ll include a home office as well as a sitting area. That’ll make sure your project stays focused and relevant. Then, think about all the routes through the room and whether you want to slow your journey or keep it clear.Ìý

Do you need the advice of an expert?
If you’re building a whole new room, reconfiguring your home’s layout or designing a kitchen, you’ll most likely be working with someone who knows what they’re doing already. But, if your project’s less full-on, it can still be something worth thinking about. An interior designer � like our in-store home designers � will be able to help you with aspects like the layout and flow of your space, as well as colours, furniture and accessories. And they’ll also be able to make suggestions you might not have thought about before, but that could have a big impact on your space.

If there are parts of your room you’d rather weren’t there but you’re not sure whether they can be changed, we’d also always suggest seeking out the advice of an expert. Even if it’s just a quick visit from a builder, they’ll be able to give you an idea of how much would be involved, the kind of costs you could expect, and indeed, whether what you’re thinking is possible.

Step three: set your budget

Having found out how much the work (if you’re doing any) will cost, now’s a good time to set your budget if you haven’t already. It’ll stop you from getting carried away when you move onto the next step, and you’ll need to know it before you book any tradespeople.

Step four: create a moodboard and sample board

Gathering inspiration is something you can do over years (and if you have a Pinterest board, chance are you are already). But definitely think about putting a moodboard together before you do anything in your room � it’ll affect not just the style of your room, but also the structure and layout, depending on whether you’re after a cosy or spacious feel.

Gather inspiration

Whether it’s a scrapbook, shoe box or Pinterest board, we suggest having a place where you can start collecting anything that appeals to you. Don’t think too deeply about what you include for now � we’ll come on to editing your inspiration down next � just save the things you really love. They might be images found online, torn out of magazines or snapped on your phone, nature finds, packaging and even household objects. Inspiration can come from all sorts of places, like the colours that someone’s put together in their outfit or the mood created by a landscape, so don’t feel that you need to stick to just interiors.

Edit it down

Once you have your inspiration collected, it’s time to whittle it down to something more considered. Look at all your images and objects together and you’ll see which ones stand out (for the wrong reasons). You should also take away any that you don’t completely love, for instance, if the colours are right but the feeling is wrong. Be ruthless � it’s the way to an interior that’s calm, not confused. Then, combine everything you’re left with into a moodboard, either a physical or digital one, so you can take it with you when you’re shopping.

Collect samples

By this point, you’ll be able to see patterns emerging in your moodboard: colours and textures that keep repeating. This will make it much easier when you’re in a store or looking at a paint chart to home in on what’ll work and not be distracted by anything else. Pick up samples wherever you can, not just of paint and fabric, but flooring, tiles, wood finishes and woven textures too. Then, just like you did with your moodboard, gather these together in one place � a sample board � where you can see them all side-by-side and refer back to them easily.

You should do this before you buy anything, but it’s also a good idea to know which flooring and tiles you’d like before you find the person who’ll fit them, because they may need specialist skills and can affect your quotes.

In short: make sure you have somewhere you can collect all your inspiration in one place, and be strict with what you keep to influence your interior. Then, use this inspiration to help you pick out samples.

Do your research Whether you’re working with a designer or not, it pays to do a little reading.

Research is something you can start at any time � the earlier the better. Just make sure you do it before you make any major decisions about layout, colour or furniture. And doing it before you talk to a designer means you’re well-informed.

Step five: build your team

If you’re having any work done to your room � moving plug sockets around, ripping up skirting, laying flooring or even just painting and hanging wallpaper � and you’re not DIY-inclined (or confident you can do the job safely), you’ll need to find tradespeople to work with. There are all sorts of ways you can do this, but word-of-mouth is still the best method in our opinion. If you’re new to the area and can’t rely on a friend’s recommendation, ask in-store as well � many interiors shops will happily share their local contacts.

Failing that, read as many reviews as you can. Independent review sites such as Feefo and Trustpilot are a good place to look, as are the ratings on Google. And always ask if you can see images of a tradesperson’s work first � or, even better, visit yourself � and talk to someone they’ve worked with before.

Either way, start looking for someone as early as you can: the best tradespeople can book up months in advance, and potentially more if yours is a large project.

In short: ask around � often the very best tradespeople are the ones that are recommended by a friend � and do it well in advance.

Your timeline

Every project is different, and the amount of time you spend on yours could be years or just a few short weeks. But this will give you an idea of the order you’ll want to do things in.

1. Get to know your room and think about how you live.

2. Create a moodboard.

3. Do your research.

4. Seek expert advice.

5. Set your budget.

6. Make your sample board.

7. Build your team.

If you’re finding the prospect of your project too daunting, then our home designers are waiting in the wings to help. You’ll find them in many of our stores throughout the UK � just get in touch with your nearest to book your free initial consultation.

Ìý

All-sort racks

Larders with storage racks on the inside of the cabinet doors are just brilliant at giving you a place to group like-things together. You can put all your spices in them so you have everything close to hand when you’re cooking. Or, turn one of the racks into a breakfast pantry with teas at the top, jams and preserves in a row beneath, and boxes of lovely-looking cereal below that.

Zigzag shelving

Shelves are a given in a larder, but when they’re on zigzag brackets, it means there are dozens of teeth (one every 45mm in our case), so you have the maximum amount of flexibility. Plus, oak zigzags are an age-old system so they’re a nice nod to tradition.

Tardis-like depth

The best larders are those that go back and back � so much so it feels like you can almost climb on in. Make the most of that depth by looking out for freestanding ledges that change up the height inside so that you can easily see everything on each level.

Ìý

Soft-close oak stubs and hidden magnets

These are the bits that you might never even spy, but boy you’d miss them if they were gone.

Larders like Suffolk have hidden magnets inside the cabinet door so they shut snugly, but without a shiny magnet distracting from the door design.

Our Henley larder has these little oak dowels that take the weight of the larder door, cushioning it so there’s no noise when it shuts, and popping themselves back into their hidey-hole after.

It’s the little things that matter.

Explore each of our threeÌýkitchen collections and their larders.